Just because somewhere may be small doesn’t mean it’s small on value. It’s almost impossible to spend hours on the road in Portugal because every small town as something amazing, old, and/or unique to offer. We could have spent two weeks driving around Portugal stopping at every exit, been blown away, and still not have had enough time.
We were however able to budget a couple days for exploring many of the small cities and towns between Lisbon and Porto and back. We drove along the coast from Lisbon to Porto, stayed in Porto a few days, headed to the Douro Valley for a few more, and then took the inland route back to Lisbon.
Among our favorite stops was the small city of Coimbra, the medieval capital of Portugal from 1131-1255. Home to the University of Coimbra, one of the oldest academic institutions in the world, the city has become a major cultural center. It’s a mix of creative, academic, ancient, and modern. Many of the archeological structures date back to the Roman era. Many of the city’s historical buildings are now classified as UNESCO World Heritage Sites for their “ceremonial and cultural traditions” that are kept alive because of them.
I’d recommend spending at least two days in this academic and cultural center of Portugal to discover what makes Coimbra such a unique place. Note: It’s steeped in history, but also in elevation as it’s built on a hill. Be prepared to walk uphill a lot. The good news is that at some point you get to walk back down again. :)
Fun Fact: A building in Coimbra was the inspiration for Bell’s library in the live-action Beauty and the Beast movie. Read on to find out which one!
Pedro e Inês Bridge
Address: Pte. Pedro e Inês, Coimbra, Portugal
The Pedro e Inês Bridge may offer some the best views of the city, but geometrical green, blue, yellow and pink glass panels which make up the bridge design are a view in themselves. It has served as a pedestrian walkway across the Mondego River since 2007.
Portugal dos Pequenitos
Address: Largo Rossio de Santa Clara, 3040-256 Coimbra, Portugal
Take a trip through Portugal…in miniature! Here you find scaled-down versions of many Portuguese monuments as well as reconstruction models of buildings through the country’s colonial history. It’s a fun way to spend an afternoon—acting like a giant! Haha :)
Jardim Botanico
Address: Calcada Martim de Freitas, Coimbra University, Coimbra 3000-456, Portugal
Founded in 1772 and covering 32-acres, the University of COimbra’s botanical Garden has a wide variety of local and regional flora and fauna species. Entry is free making it a wonderful place to enjoy an afternoon stroll of as a place to relax from the hustle of the city.
Universidade de Coimbra
Address: 3004-531 Coimbra, Portugal
Established in 1290 in Lisbon, the university relocated several times before permanently settling in Coimbra in 1537 but remains one o the oldest continuously operating universities in the world and the oldest university in Portugal. This merit-based admission public university now has more than 20,000 students studying everything from law, medicine, humanities, science, pharmacy, and more. It’s consistently ranked amongst the top teaching and research universities in the world and is a major science and technology hub for research in Portugal.
Besides all of its academic achievements, many of the buildings were part of Alcaçova Palace which was purchased from the Royal Family in 1597 and are now UNESCO World Heritage listed buildings.
You’ll need tickets to visit the main sites on campus, but I’d HIGHLY recommend purchasing a campus tour in advance. Tours are guided by university students. We loved our guide. He was so knowledgeable and really gave us an insight in to how important the academics and university programs are to the students (very different from many State-side colleges).
The campus is not Southern USA campus large so you’ll easily be able to see the major sites in an afternoon. Don’t miss these:
Biblioteca Joanina: This FABULOUS Baroque library has three great rooms, shelves to the ceilings filled with more than 200,000 volumes. The vaulted ceilings are ornately painted and the walls and arches are gilded, painted, and/or made of exotic woods. It also was the inspiration for the new live-action Beauty and the Beast movie with Emma Watson.
Chapel of São Miguel: Acquired as part of the Royal Palace purchase by the university in 1597, this late Gothic, Manueline style chapel is stunning. Every surface is ornate—the walls are covered in blue, white, and yellow azulejos, the ceiling is painted with bold patterns and bright colors, and a huge pipe organ offsets the balance in the best way.
Torre da Universisdade
- Royal Palace
- Se Nova de Coimbra
- Museum da Ciencia
- Se Velha de Coimbra
Mosteiro de Santa Clara-a-Velha
Address: 3040-249 Coimbra, Portugal
Dating back to the 1300s, this medieval Gothic monastery known as Old St. Clare features a two aisle, columned nave with stone vaulting, small chapter house rose windows, cloisters, a refectory, and an old palace.
Because of its below sea level location and close proximity to the Mondego River, the monastery repeatedly suffered from flooding and therefore was abandoned in the 17th century. After much restoration and excavation, visitors can now wander through the well preserved ruins, including the unearthed cloisters remains.
Museu Nacional de Machado de Castro
Address: 3000-248 Coimbra, Portugal
Named after the Portuguese sculpture Joaquim Machado de Castro, this art museum in Coimbra occupies the city’s medieval episcopal palace, which also happens to be the site of the city’s Roman forum. The collection is the largest among national museums in Portugal containing a massive collection of sculptures in addition to tapestries, paintings, and altarpieces from defunct churches throughout the region.
Igreja de Santa Cruz
Address: Praça 8 de Maio, 3001-300 Coimbra, Portugal
This 12th century monastery serves as the final resting place of the two first kings of Portugal, Alfonso Henriques and Sancho I. The structure ahas elements of Manueline design and elaborate Renaissance style that have been added over the centuries.
Aqueduto de São Sebastião
Address: Praca Joao Paulo II, Coimbra 3000-227
If you visit Jardim Botanico, take a few to admire the impressive remaining 21 arch aqueduct. Ordered by King S. Sebastião for construction in 1570, this aqueduct took advantage of the existing Roman aqueduct route to supply water to the city’s uphill neighborhoods.
Conímbriga
Address: R. das Ruinas 7, Condeixa-a-Nova 3150-220
Located a mere 10 miles from Coimbra, Conímbriga is one of the largest excavated - and most intact - Roman settlements in Portugal. Parts date back to the 1st and 2nd centuries!, that’s crazy! Don’t miss the Casa dos Repuxos (House of the Fountain), floor mosaics, and painted murals. They’re amazing! Talk about stepping back in history…wow.
Maria Portuguesa
Website | @mariaportuguesacoimbra | Address: R. Joaquim António de Aguiar N°128, 3000-230 Coimbra, Portugal
YUMMY! This unassuming tiny cafe is where it is at. They’re not a vegan restaurant, but most of the menu items can be adjusted to vegan. I had a fabulous pasta dish with fresh veggies (!!!!) - Note: outside of vegan restaurants you’d be surprised at how little vegetables are on menus in Portugal. We also shared the vegan Alheira. Alheira is a smoked Portuguese sausage, but the vegan one was made with mushrooms, mmmm! They had several other traditional Portuguese dishes that could be adjusted as well.
Shari Sushi Bar
Website | @sharisushicoimbra | Address: Avenida Mendes Silva No 279/281 | 1st Floor, Coimbra 3030-193, Portugal
LeBraun and I will never shy away from sushi especially when we’re somewhere known for fresh fish. Shari Sushi was a welcomed change from three weeks of traditional Portuguese foods—fusion sushi, sashimi, temaki…yum! The service was quick, the presentation was nice, and the food was quality.
Café Santa Cruz
Website | Address: Praca 8 de Maio, Coimbra 3000-300, Portugal
A Coimbra institution, Café Santa Cruz is located to the right of the entrance of Igreja de Santa Cruz in part of the cathedral that was built as an auxiliary chapel. The 16th century vaulted ceilings, stone arches, and glass windowed interior alone is worth a visit. The café serves up fresh pastries, sandwiches and coffee.
O Burrito
Website | @oburrito.pt | Address: Largo de São Salvador, Coimbra, Portugal
I love enjoying local cuisine while traveling but sometimes you need a change and O Burrito was a very welcomed change! We entered the open and welcoming door, climb a tiny winding staircase upstairs, and enjoyed a very filling, HUGE burrito. They’re burritos are not strictly Mexican-inspired but different fusions wrapped in tortillas. I ordered a black bean burrito and LeBraun enjoyed an Asian inspired option.
They also have a location in Porto.
NATA Lisboa - Coimbra
Website | @nata_lisboa | Address: Rua Ferreira Borges 50, Coimbra 3000-179, Portugal
This cafe has several locations around the country and serves up hot drinks, pastries (like the famous pastéis de nata - egg custard tarts), sandwiches, meat, cheese, even sangria. It’s great for a quick lunch or afternoon snack.
Where did you stay?
We thoroughly enjoyed our stay at the Sapientia Boutique Hotel (R. José Falcão, 3000-062 Coimbra, Portugal). We picked it online simply based on the location which is only a couple minutes walk to the university and several amazing restaurants, but we blown away with how special it was. Everything was very stylish. It was modern industrial yet rustic—clean white walls, industrial features, and rustic wooden accents. Check in was easy, the staff was friendly, bilingual, and hardworking.
Our room was light and airy. Fresh white pillow-y bedding, a spacious living area with a kitchenette, a huge porch overlooking the river, and even a hanging Rattan chair.
Wallpaper made of pages from the Livro do Desassossego (The Book of Disquiet), Portugal’s most famous book, were a focal point in the room. Our room even had a kitchenette and converter couch. The porch had a nice view across the river.
The hot breakfast was large and had something for everyone. You could enjoy it in the dining room or outside on their large, private patio. Had it been a bit warmer in the evenings and we’d been in town longer, we would have definitely spent time out there working. It was lovely.
There’s also happy hour drinks on their rooftop overlooking the city. We would 100% stay at Sapientia again, although this time hopefully for a few more nights.
Where is Coimbra located?
Coimbra is located roughly two hours north of Lisbon and only one hour and fifteen minutes south of Porto. It’s a fantastic location to turn a long road trip between Portugal’s two largest cities into a two day adventure.
