Those who love exploring love road trips. You can get out of the major cities/tourist centers and see the country how the natives see it—full of rolling hills, terraced vineyards, friendly faces, charming villages, amazing food, and pristine beaches. For a small country Portugal is big on spirit. We were pleasantly surprised by what theses couple little towns had to offer. We thought we would roll through, see one or two things, then get back on the road. Instead we found ourselves immersed in history and wishing we had more time.
If you’re traveling between Porto, Lisbon and/or Coimbra, I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND taking a slightly longer route and stopping (at minimum) in the beautiful municipalities of Fátima, Batalha, and Óbidos. You won’t be disappointed.
- LeBraun and I are night owls and love to sleep in, but in order to not be as rushed at each destination you’re going to have to wake up early and get moving.
- Another bonus of early arrival is avoiding the tour bus masses at sites.
- Keep an eye on attraction closing times. Many have extended hours during the summers/peak tourist times, but many also close sharply at 5 (or earlier) year-round.
- Also note if your destinations have mid-day closings. They’re not uncommon in Portugal. The closings are roughly between 12:30 p.m. and 3 p.m. if they are observed.
- If you don’t want to do this on your own there are several companies that offer day-long trips from Lisbon. We didn’t use them so you’ll have to do the research but they definitely exist.
Here’s the breakdown of drive times to and between places for your information. Times will vary on time of day and year, traffic, etc.
If you’re round-tripping from Lisbon:
- Lisbon to Óbidos: 1 hour 8 mins
- Óbidos to Batalha: 49 mins
- Batalha to Fátima: 26 mins
- Fátima to Lisbon: 1 hour 23 mins
Route Path: Lisbon - Óbidos - Batalha - Fátima - Lisbon
Total Drive Time: 3 hours 47 mins
If you’re traveling Coimbra to Lisbon:
- Coimbra to Fátima: 54 mins
- Fátima to Batalha: 26 mins
- Batalha to Óbidos: 50 mins
- Óbidos to Lisbon: 1 hour 10 mins
Route Path: Coimbra - Fátima - Batalha - Óbidos - Lisbon
Total Drive Time: 3 hours 20 mins
If you’re going a different route, just adjust the stops in whatever order makes the most sense for your drive.
Located about an hour and a half north - and a little east - of Lisbon, Fátima is forever known as the site for three apparitions of the Virgin Mary in the early 1900s. The town is now dependent on religious tourism which includes hotels, restaurants, and shops for pilgrims from around the world.
Santuário Nossa Senhora de Fátima (Sanctuary of Our Lady of Fátima)
Website | @santuariodefatimaoficial | Address: 2495-401 Fátima, Portugal
From 1916-1917 three young shepherd cousins witnessed apparitions of the Virgin Mary on three separate occasions in Cova da Iria, a Portuguese parish of Fatima. The Virgin Mary divulged three secrets/prophecies to the children which culminated in the public Miracle of the Sun event on 13 October 1917. Hundreds flocked to the site in pilgrimage, to do penance, atone for sins, and witness the miracle first-hand.
Shortly after, in 1921 a small chapel constructed by locals in honor the apparitions of the Virgin Mary to the three children—the original Capelinha das Aparições (Chapel of the Apparitions)—celebrated its first mass. From then on construction continued around the site and now the large complex includes a couple basilicas and several chapels, monuments, and support structures.
It’s since been an important pilgrimage site for Roman Catholics around the world. Roughly six to eight million pilgrims visit the complex every year.
We weren’t sure what to expect when we arrived. Neither of us are Catholic so we hadn’t heard about it before our Portugal trip. We came in the backside of the Basilica of Our Lady of the Rosary (the tall center church in images) and the inside was surprisingly modern in design. The structure was very simple compared to many of the older chapels and cathedrals we had visited in Portugal previously. The walls were plain - no azulejos - and everything felt clean. The, for lack of a better word, “Saint shrines” lining the sides of the nave were minimalist—a small stained glass window, wood and marble alter, and a carved gold leafed image. The apse followed suite with “light” decorative elements and imagery compared to the extravagantly detailed and ornate apse in older churches. Inside you can also visit the tombs of the three shepherd children. When we walked out the front doors we were blown away by the sheer size fo the complex. It’s a very beautiful facility whether you’re religious not. We walked around and tried to take it all in. It was a very interesting place to witness the power of people’s faith and completely unexpected as we hadn’t done a lot of research.
Note: There are several daily services in multiple languages so check online or grab a brochure at the information center when you arrive to plan accordingly should you wish to attend one.
Other Places of Interest
- Lucia’s House and Francisco & Jacinta’s House - The homes of the three children who witnessed the apparitions
- Aljustrel village - The small village where the children’s homes are located
- Loca do Cabeço / Valinhos - The site of the 1st and 3rd apparitions of Angel of Peace, the Guardian Angel of Portugal
- Wax Museum of Fátima - The world’s only wax museum depicting scenes from the church through wax figured
Another small town in the hills of the Leiria District worth a stop is Batalha. The town’s name translates to “battle,” as it was founded by King D. João I of Portugal as the site to honor the Portuguese victory in a battle against the Castilians in 1385.
Mosteiro da Batalha
Address: Largo Infante Dom Henrique, 2440-109 Batalha, Portugal
To thank the Virgin Mary for the victory construction began on a new monastery—construction which would take more than a century (1386-1517) and be overseen by more than 15 architects! Over time the monastery was damaged, abandoned and left to fall in ruins. Thankfully King Ferdinand II of Portugal commissioned the restoration project and saved this jewel.
Built in mostly in late Gothic architecture with Manueline style, the monastery rises in ornate spires over the plaza. The exterior features buttresses, huge pilasters, and ornate details. We could have spent the whole day just admiring the outside.
Visiting the main church is free, but there is a small entry fee for visiting the choir, chapter house, cloisters, and unfinished chapel. The interior is narrow and very tall. There are stained glass windows, beautiful vaulted ceilings, a vast alter, and a number of tombs belonging to people of great importance in Portuguese history, including a couple of the architects.
On the back side, the unfinished chapel is stunning. The amount of stonework detailing put into the design is amazing.
Food & Drink
We didn’t eat anything in Batalha as we had a large breakfast but we had researched a couple in case we were hungry. Both are well-rated and have listed vegan-friendly options.
- Vintage Retaurante
Address: Largo Mestre Afonso Domingues 6 | Hotel Lis Batalha - Mestre Afonso Domingues, Batalha 2440-102, Portugal
- Sopas
Address: Travessa Alvaro Sampaio 1, Batalha 2440-123, Portugal
@municipiodeobidos | A proper of approximately 3,100 residents, Óbidos is a fortified settlement located on a hilltop just 70 minutes North of Lisbon. Narrow cobblestone streets and traditional painted houses are encircled by a medieval wall. Atop the hill, a well-preserved medieval castle. Óbidos should be a synonym for CHARM! It’s everywhere here.
Acueducto de Óbidos
Address: N114 9, Óbidos, Portugal
Despite the town’s initial growth from a Roman settlement and common misconception, the Acueducto de Óbidos is not actually Roman. IT was ordered for construction in 1575 by Queen Catherine to provide a constant supply of water to the town. The aqueduct extends 6km southeast of the hill—half above ground and half tunneled below to the water source.
Castelo do Óbidos
Address: R. Josefa de Óbidos, Óbidos, Portugal
The hilltop in Óbidos has been occupied since the Romans, but it wasn’t until King Alfonso II gave the title of this village to Queen Urraca in 1210 as a wedding present that it’s current design was established. The King’s gesture became a royal tradition that lasted until the 19th century.
The castle is one of the most well-preserved medieval castles with several towers, extensive fortress walls, and fantastic views of the town and valley below.
For two weeks each July, the castle hosts a traditional Medieval Market with heraldic banners, costumed merchants, jesters, and soldiers, traditional foods, and even jousting knights!
The castle is now a Pousada, a small Portuguese hotel located in a historic building. There are tons of these around the country and definitely worth a stay in for a least one night. Check out @pousadasdeportugal for some inspiring pics!
Castle Walls
While visiting Castelo do Óbidos you can walk along the fortress walls or you can access the walls from several locations around town. Whatever you choose to do please be careful as there are no guardrails along the routes and some sections are quite narrow. Walk/climb at your own risk!
Igreja de Santa Maria
Address: Praça de Santa Maria, 2510-001 Óbidos, Portugal
At the Northern end of Rua Direita, Óbidos’ main church is worth a visit to see it’s beautifully painted ceiling and azulejos—blue-and-white painted tiles—tiled walls! The church also hosted the wedding of King Afonso V to his cousin, Princess Isabella of COimbra, on 15 August 1441. The happy couple were only 9 and 10 years of age at the time.
Visit a Bookstore
Óbidos is also famous for its bookstores. Note: A livraria is a bookstore while a biblioteca is a library. For a town of just 3,100, there are 14 bookstores throughout the small township, each with a nice selection and history. Here just a few of the many:
- There’s The Literary Man, a boutique hotel/bookstore where guests will find books on almost every wall. The hotel currently boasts more than 45,000 titles.
- In the centre of Óbidos there’s Livraria do Mercado, a small health food market/bookstore with every wall stacked floor to ceiling with books.
- Just down the road there’s Livraria de Santiago, a bookshop housed in a church dating back to the 12th century. Alterations have not been made to the interior but shelving constructed in the middle displays their large collection.
- Wine and books more your thing? Then there’s Livraria da Adega, a bookshop/co-working space housed in an old wine cellar. Enjoy a glass of wine and a new book on their outdoor patio!
Drink some Ginjinha d’Óbidos
Ginjinha, or simply Ginja, is a sweet alcoholic Morello cherry Portuguese liquor. In Óbidos the drink is often served in a small, thin chocolate cup. Chocolate & cherry? Who could resist. :) You’ll find shop owners offering samples along the streets as well as shops dedicated solely to the sweet drink.
Wander & Shop
Rua Direita is the beating heart of the town. This cobblestone street is lined with shops busting with handicrafts, food, drinks, clothing, and more! We found 90% of our gifts wandering down this small town street. It wasn’t only the wide selection but the items were of much better quality than those we found in other touristy towns and general souvenir shops. You’ll still find gimmicky knick knacks, but you’ll also find one-off ceramics, hand-sewn clothing, handmade jewelry and assorted locally crafted goodies!
There are TONS of places to eat in Óbidos, especially since the town is experiencing tourist-driven growth. You’ll find cafes and eateries selling everything from sandwiches, pastries, seafood, Mediterranean, wine, and more. We only spent an afternoon in town so obviously didn’t get to try everything offered. I’m sure whatever you choose will be great but here’s where we did go:
- Avocado Coffee & Healthy Food
Website | Address: R. da Porta da Vila 16, 2510-089 Óbidos, Portugal
Quick service, friendly staff and vegan options on the menu—we’re there! We’re so glad we stumbled upon this delight. We didn’t eat vegan for the meal but it is available for those who need it. The portions were huge and the space and cozy and bright. We ordered the bread with goat brie and figs, the chicken club sandwich with chips, and a breakfast dish with a waffle, over-easy egg and bacon.
- Capinha d’Obidos
Address: Galeria casa do Pelourinho, Obidos 2510-060, Portugal
The small queue is worth the wait to snag a quick lunch or just a sweet treat (or two)! We nabbed ourselves some freshly baked bread and a bolo de arroz (a type of Portuguese rice flour muffin that takes kinda like cornbread. Yum!
